here are some plates of styles that were fashionable in the winter of 1835, some of which include both the front and back of the dress. I’m not a big fan of the big sleeves that were popular in this period. They give the figure such a funny shape! But I quite like the pink concert dress. The sleeves are not too big and the pink colour is so eyecatching. I also love the feathers women wore in their hair. They’re pretty, aren’t they?
Without further ado, here are the plates (as always, click on the pictures to enlarge them):
DINNER OR EVENING DRESS
Dress of pink satin, the corsage plain, and fitting tight to the bust, with draperies a la Sevigne put on.The dress has short sleeves (see plate), over which are long full ones of rich blonde: the epaulettes and cuffs, which are pointed, are of the material of the dress: the front of the skirt is en tablier (see plate), ornamented with wreaths of oak-leaves, from the centre of which, as if fastening the two branches together, depend short cords, finished by tassels representing acorns (see plate). Six of these ornaments, increasing gradually in size as they go down, are placed at distances down the front of the dress: two ornament the front of the corsage. Hat of green velvet, a la Agnes Sorel. The crown is in shape like the calottes of the hats at present in fashion: the leaf is narrow at back and very broad in front, where it is turned tip; two long drooping feathers are placed at the left side. The hat, as may be remarked in the plate, is worn over a net-work a l’antiqne, of green and gold. The hair is in plain bands. Round the neck is a new-fashioned cravatte, called a caprice (see plate); it is of green satin, lined with swan’s-down. White kid gloves and white satin shoes. The sitting figure gives the back of the hat. The dress is a redingotle of gros de Naples.
Dress of white crepe lisse, the corsage plain, the sleeves short and excessively full, and finished above the elbow with ruffles a la Louis XV. The garniture of the dress consists of roses without foliage, and the tips of ostrich feathers (see plate), put on in Vandyke just above the hem of the dress. A wreath of smaller roses goes round the neck of the dress: pink ceinture. The back hair is in several light braids on the crown of the head (see plate), which are encircled by an ornament of jewels and gold. Two immensely high feathers spring from the back of the braids. The front hair, which is excessively parted on the brow, is in full tufts of curls at the sides of the head. White kid gloves, finished at top with a puffing of satin ribbon, embroidered stockings, and white satin shoes. The sitting figure gives the back of this very pretty costume.
GRAND SOIREE OR DINNER DRESS
Dress of white gaze de Chomberry, worn over white satin. The corsage is made to fit tight to the bust: a mantilie or pelerine decollelee of pink satin (see plate), trimmed with two rows (one excessively deep, the other narrow,) of rich blonde, is worn over the corsage; the mantilie is open on the shoulders, and brought together with two small bows of satin ribbon; it is cut rather deep on the shoulders, and sloped off gradually towards the centre of the front and back, where it is as narrow as possible.— (Sec plate.) Three full folds of satin, in the style of a drapery a la Sevigne, depend from each side of the front of the mantilie, aud are fixed low down on the centre of the front of the corsage by a full bow of satin ribbon; another smaller bow is placed at the top of the centre of the corsage: the mantilie is edged all round with a narrow piping or liserc, and to which are attached the two falls of blonde: round the bosom is an excessively narrow blonde, standing up. The sleeves are short, and excessively full. The skirt of the dress is made en tablier.—(See plate.) Two rouleaux of satin, to which a very narrow blonde is affixed, go down each side of the front of the dress, in the style of robings; these rouleaux, which are very small at the waist, where they are close together, gradually increase in size and distance as they go down. A spiral wreath of full-blown roses goes from top to bottom, at each side, between the two rouleaux; a large bow of satin ribbon, from which springs a high bouquet of roses in the centre of the front of the lower part of the dress. The ceinture is to match. The cap, which is styled a la Chatelaine, is of blonde. The crown is plain; the borders of which there are two, a deep and a narrower, are put on with a great deal of fulness, and made to stand up completely off the face.—(See plate.) A high bouquet of roses, half sheltered by the blonde, is placed in the front of the cap, and rather on the summit of the head (for the cap is worn far back): two full-blown roses are placed on the right temple, one on the left; the barbes dependant from each side are of blonde: a ribbon goes round the head of the cap, it is tied in along loose bow at the back of the borders; a smaller bow is placed over the bavolet of blonde at the back. Necklace, ear-rings, and buckle of gold. White kid gloves; black satin shoes; silk stockings; a large bouquet, and a fan of mother o’ pearl and gold. The sitting figure gives the back of the dress; the robe is of blue crape over white.
WALKING OR CARRIAGE COSTUME
Satin redingote, the corsage plain and fitting tight to the bust. The redingote trimmed with silk braid, the colour of the satin: two rows placed close together go down the front from top to bottom; and two rows, but placed at a distance from each other, are round the bottom. A kind of mantilie of black lace, very deep on the shoulders, rather narrower at back, and diminishing gradually to a point in front,until it reaches the waist, is worn in the style of a pelerine with this redingote—(see plate); a double row of the same silk braid is placed a little above it. The collar, which is of black lace, is edged with a narrow piping of black satin, and trimmed with a deep black lace. The sleeves, which are enormously wide, are finished at the wrist with a deeper cuff than those lately worn. Green satin hat, the crown made slanting, higher at front than at back—(see plate): the front, which is worn as close as possible to the face, is very long at the sides, where it is rounded off; the trimming, consisting of a bow placed at the right side, and which retains a bird of Paradise (the bird dyed black, the long plumage the colour of the hat), is of the richest and the widest satin ribbon: a second bow finishes the hat at back. The Cravatte icharpe round the neck is of green gauze, to match the hat; the ends are fringed, and it is fastened in front by a brooch. Black shoes. White silk stockings. The reticule is a round basket cut in four pieces, the cover like the top of a parasol.—(See plate.) The frame is made in gilt wire, and the satin stretched upon it; it is finished underneath by a silk tassel, and suspended on the arm by a ribbon. Shoes of satin royal. The hair is in plain bands. The second figure shows the back of the dress.
The Parisian ladies are adopting the use of caleches of an evening; a fashion we should like to see more general here: the size and lightness with which they are made, prevent the possibility of disarranging the head-dresses, and they are a great preservative against cold: they are now made with capes arranged with whalebones, to prevent any weight or pressure on the dress.
TOILETTE DE CONCERT
Standing figure. Dress of pink velours epingle; corsage drapè,in folds across the bosom; back tight. The sleeves very short and full, and cut open in front to admit of the underneath sleeve being seen.—(See plate.) The fente or cut is trimmed all round with narrow blonde. A small bow without ends of satin ribbon is placed on each shoulder, and a larger bow with ends at the lower part of the sleeve. The skirt, which is very full, is in small plaits all round the waist, and is looped up at bottom (see plate) with full bows of satin ribbon that retain two marabouts. The dress is looped up higher at the left side than at the right; round the bosom is a narrow blonde. Toque of tulle sylphe, the colour of the dress. The toque is made in full high puffings (see plate), which looks well on account of the lightness of the material: a plain piece crosses the brow. The toque is ornamented with two long marabouts, and bows of satin ribbon. Necklace and brooch of cameos. White kid gloves, ornamented at top with puffings of satin ribbon, the colour of the dress. Embroidered cambric handkerchief, trimmed with Valenciennes. Bouquet of roses, white satin shoes, and silk stockings; the fronts in imitation of blonde.
Second figure, seated at the piano-forte. —Dress of white crape, over white satin, made like the foregoing, with bows of blue satin ribbon on the shoulders and sleeves. Coiffure en cheveux. The front hair is brought in plain bands below the temples, where it is suffered to fall in thick clusters of ringlets, a la Mancini. A bunch of roses is placed on each temple (see plate); the back hair is in a thick braid, forming half a circle, and a good deal elevated from the head. A wreath, consisting of seven fullblown roses, without foliage, is placed immediately over the braid. A small gold ornament, surrounded by a small braid formed of the ends of the hair, is over the division of the front hair. Gold necklace.
Third figure, leaning over the instrument. —Cap of blue gaze Dona Maria; the crown is cut round, and merely gathered to fit the head. The border, which is deep in front, where it is made to stand up, and narrower at back, is likewise of gaze, the same as the cap. A bow of satin ribbon is placed below the ear at the left side.—(See plate.) Two white marabouts ornament the front of the cap. Dress of white sati ; the corsage made to cross in front: it is trimmed round the neck with narrow blonde.
Dress of white crape; corsage a la Sevigne.. The sleeves very short and full, and ornamented with two deep falls of blonde, that nearly cover them. The skirt of the dress is richly embroidered down each side of the front, about as low as the knees, where it continues all round the dress.—(See plate.) A deep blonde, put on to a narrow satin liserc or piping, and reaching at each side from the waist to the knees, gives the dress the appearance of a short tunic. Ceinture of pink satin ribbon. Another pink satin ribbon, edged all round with blonde, forms a point that reaches to the top of the waist at back (see plate): it is brought over the shoulders, and crosses beneath the ceinture in front. The ends are short and rounded. This ribbon, as may be seen by the plate, is cut on the shoulders to make it sit. —Coiffure en Chiffons, ornamented with jewels, and three ostrich feathers. The back hair is in one high braid, encircled by a rich ornament of jewels; puffings of gaze Dona Maria are placed at each side of the braid. Two high ostrich feathers spring from the back; a third is placed over the left ear, and droops toward the face. The front hair, brought low at the sides, is in full clusters of ringlets. A small flat gold chain, a jours, crosses the brow like a Feronniere. Necklace, earrings, and brooch of cameos. White kid gloves, white satin shoes, silk stockings, and blonde scarf. The sitting figure gives the reverse of the dress.
What do you think of these outfits? Would you have worn them?
The Lady’s magazine (and museum)